10 Common Causes of a Car That Won’t Accelerate

Gasoline-powered vehicles use a complex system to get moving. Problems with fuel or air delivery, exhaust emission, or anything in between can be the reason your car is sluggish or won’t accelerate. 

A combustion engine requires a specific ratio of air to fuel to be in each cylinder at the right time, followed by a carefully-timed spark. The exhaust gases also need to be released properly. 

These variables can change depending on what the car is doing during each moment, and the environment you’re driving in. A car at idle, for example, has different air/fuel requirements than a car accelerating rapidly to merge onto the freeway. Cold temperatures require more fuel because the air is more dense. 

The electronic control module (ECM) or electronic control unit (ECU) is the brain of the car. It uses input from many sensors to control spark timing and determine how much fuel is needed. It also has the tough job of keeping track of the emissions system to ensure the vehicle is running as environmentally clean as it was designed to.  

There are many possible causes of acceleration problems, so troubleshooting may be tricky. Ten main categories are discussed below – start troubleshooting with the issues that are easiest and cheapest to repair/replace and go from there. You will likely need the help of a mechanic for some of these systems.

Top 10 Reasons Your Car is Not Accelerating

1) Emergency Brake is Engaged/Out of Fuel

emergency brake

These may seem like obvious causes of slow acceleration, but it’s important to check that the emergency brake is off and the vehicle has enough gas. One or both of these issues will absolutely cause the vehicle to have slow acceleration or even to stall.

While this is rarely going to be the case, it’s worth mentioning in the number one spot before further troubleshooting is done.

2) Fuel Problems

fuel injectors

Anything stopping the fuel from reaching the combustion chamber in the proper quantities can cause acceleration issues.

The fuel filter is an often overlooked component, but a clogged or dirty fuel filter is a common culprit. Over time, fuel filters become filled with sediment and debris from the fuel and should be replaced regularly.

Clogged or dirty fuel injectors can cause misfires or an irregular spray which disrupts the combustion process. Sometimes you can clean these by putting a fuel additive into the gas tank.

A bad fuel pump can also provide inadequate fuel flow. If this is the case, it will need to be replaced. Fuel pumps may weaken over time if you frequently drive around with an empty gas tank. Fuel pumps are cooled by the fuel they are submerged in, so if there’s not enough fuel to cool the pump it may shorten its life.

Having a bad tank of gas, using the incorrect octane, or contaminants in the fuel (such as dirt or water) can also cause slow acceleration. If this is the case, draining the tank and filling it with fresh fuel should solve the problem.

3) Spark or Spark Timing Problems

dirty spark plug

Faulty ignition coils, distributors, or spark plugs can cause misfires as well. If the spark is missing from a cylinder, there will be no explosion (and of course, having explosions at precisely the right times is what ultimately powers the vehicle). A spark at the wrong time will do no good, and may even harm the engine in some cases. 

Ignition coils convert the low voltage from the battery to high voltage needed for the spark to jump the gap on a spark plug. The distributor passes this voltage from the ignition coil(s) to the spark plugs themselves. Most modern cars no longer use a distributor, so this may not even be a possible problem for you. 

4) Mechanical Problems


Since there are many moving parts in a combustion engine, there are a lot of pieces that can break or fail. 

A misaligned timing belt or chain can cause the engine’s intake and exhaust valves to open at the wrong times. You may notice a lopey idle if this is the case. If the timing belt was recently replaced, it may be off a tooth or the tension could be set wrong. If the timing belt is too loose, the timing may not be correct. 

A slipping clutch or low clutch fluid can lead to issues as the gearbox is unable to correctly engage with the engine. A slipping clutch will cause the engine speed (RPM) to increase quickly while your ground speed stays roughly constant. 

If the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve is stuck open then too much exhaust can enter the system, which throws off the sensors. This also reduces the amount of oxygen in the cylinder, which means less power. Note that an EGR valve stuck closed should not affect power, unless it causes the ECU to place the vehicle in limp mode.

A clogged or faulty catalytic converter can lead to too much back-pressure on the engine. A clogged catalytic converter is very dangerous and may even catch fire! In this case, it’s best to park the vehicle until it can be repaired.

5) Electrical Problems

electrical problems

If any of the sensors don’t work right, the vehicle’s ECU/ECM can become confused and respond to incorrect data, leading to issues such as sluggish acceleration. 

Different types of vehicles use different types of sensors. These may include the mass air flow sensor, MAP sensor, oxygen sensor, throttle position sensor, coolant temperature sensor, crankshaft sensor, camshaft sensor, and others. 

Since the timing of combustion events and mixture of gases need to be exact for the vehicle to run efficiently and as expected, having the wrong data about what’s going on in and around the vehicle can result in problems with acceleration or even with starting the car. 

6) Airflow Problems

dirty air filter

Since air is a basic requirement for combustion, restricting airflow in any way will result in acceleration problems. A clogged or dirty engine air filter can cause this. Manufacturers recommend the air filter to be replaced at regular intervals – check your service manual and keep a record of when this is done. 

Keep in mind that the cabin air filter has a different function, as it is part of the HVAC system and not the engine. However, it may simply be called an “air filter” if you’re searching online. Make sure to purchase the appropriate one when replacing the filter. 

The throttle body is the tube containing the butterfly valve (also known as the throttle plate). This valve changes how much air is allowed into the intake manifold, and is connected to inputs from your right foot. If this is stuck in one position or debris builds up the vehicle won’t work as expected. Rough idle is likely if this is what’s going on in your vehicle.  

7) Limp Mode

check engine light

Some vehicles will enter “limp mode” when a fault is detected. This fault could be an errant sensor, excessive engine knock, or a problem with the emission control system. Typically, limp mode is accompanied with a check engine light and greatly reduced power.

It is designed to keep the engine safe while allowing you to move the vehicle to the nearest repair shop. If your vehicle enters limp mode, bring it in to a mechanic as soon as possible so they may diagnose and correct the fault.

8) Leaky or Clogged Vacuum Hoses

vacuum hoses

Engine vacuum is a measurement of air pressure inside the intake manifold relative to atmospheric pressure. When the throttle is completely closed (idling, foot off the gas), the engine vacuum is at its highest.

In this state, the cylinders are trying to pull more air than the throttle plate will allow into the intake manifold, and therefore the intake manifold pressure is much lower than ambient atmospheric pressure.

When the throttle is fully open, pressure in the intake manifold is roughly equivalent to ambient atmospheric pressure. There is little to no vacuum in this state. On a turbocharged (or supercharged) vehicle, it may enter positive pressure as the turbo or supercharger pushes compressed air into the manifold. This pressure is greater than ambient atmospheric pressure.

Vacuum hoses control the behavior of many components around the vehicle, including the brake booster, fuel pressure regulator, and EGR valve. If there is a leak in any of these hoses, the linked component may behave erratically.

Furthermore, air leaking in (or out) is not measured by the MAF or MAP sensors, and will throw off the vehicle’s air fuel ratio. On turbocharged vehicles, this may manifest as a boost leak which lowers the amount of air entering the combustion chamber well below the expected volume.

9) Low Compression

low compression causes

The ratio between the cylinder volume when the piston is at the lowest point and the volume when the piston is at the highest point is known as the compression ratio. Compression is crucial for the function and efficiency of a combustion engine as higher compression means a more forceful explosion. 

Anything that causes gases to leak out of the engine can cause low compression, which will lead to power problems.

Potential causes of low compression include, but are not limited to: worn/cracked piston rings, worn valve springs, worn valves, carbon buildup around valve seats, and worn cylinder linings, valve clearances out of spec, and blown head gaskets.

All of these things will cause combustion gases to leak outside of the combustion chamber, lowering compression and reducing the potency of the explosion in that particular cylinder.

10) High Altitude

driving high altitude

When driving at high altitudes, you may notice your car struggling or lagging, especially when driving uphill. Oxygen is a crucial part of the mixture in the combustion chamber and there is less oxygen at higher elevations.

Naturally aspirated cars are more likely to have this problem than forced-induction (turbocharged or supercharged) vehicles as the forcing of air into the engine can somewhat compensate for having less oxygen in the environment.

The sensors should detect that there is less oxygen and suck in more air to make up for it.  



36 thoughts on “10 Common Causes of a Car That Won’t Accelerate”

  1. My hyndai tucson 2018 is failing to accelerate when I press down the pedal, the last service was done 14 Dec 2023, so for the car to pick up the speed I have to release the accelerate and press it again, what might be the cause

  2. My Jeep Liberty 04 model has problem Accelerating when it enters water and even when it manages to come out of the water it doesn’t accelerate anymore until it is turned off and ON again then it acts normal… please what can I do to it

    • Are you entering water deep enough to flood the engine? Pay attention to where the intake is and make sure the water level never goes that high. If you find yourself crossing a lot of water, consider adding a snorkel.

  3. I have a similar problem with my 2006 ford expedition 5.4 enguine just been replaced the complete long block from a ford dealer.
    I use a trusted repair shop to remove and replace the the long block and reassemble the enguine
    Now my vehicle asselerate very slow wen going up hill and the gas pedal all the way down

  4. Please my Toyota Corolla CE 2007 model stopped raising after we changed the Rings what could be the solution.
    I have changed the Pedal sensor, injector head, brain Boss but still it not raising.

  5. My Toyota picnic suddenly stopped on motion and when start again, it stated but not raised down. Mechanic and Electrical engineer had checked but no possible solution yet. Please what do I do? Thanks

  6. Hi i have problem with my polo 1.9 tdi 2009 modal when you switch on the engine starts but when pressed a accelerate is not responding and it also showing glow plug light and the idle is to to 10 what can be a problem

  7. My 03 Honda Element is frustrating me now, the car doesn’t even run at all and when climbing uphill it will seem as if something is dragging it back the more and a lot have been changed that we got to the extreme of changing the gear box to a 4wd but still having the same issue, like a lot have been changed both vtec, vtc valve, plugs, coil, fuel pump,map and other sensor with both injector mouth, please I need help before I run mad because of this Honda Element. Please!

      • I swear this is the reason if you have your 02 sensor replaced and problem persist. Then clogged catalyst converter is the culprit. If checked and problem persist, then replace accelerator pedal or the sensor behind the pedal

  8. I read that modern cars do not require to warm up before driving off. Yet, my daily experience is that the car struggles to accelerate. When on drive, you can hear the reving of the engine but it does not translate into actual acceleration. The car moves but very slowly. With a 2 minutes warm up before driving off, the issue is much reduced. The car drives normally once the engine temperature indicator light goes off.

    What could be the issue requiring the car to warm up?

  9. Hello,

    I’ve never left a comment on a forum like this before but due to recent events I have been searching for anything that could help narrow down what could possibly be happening with our car.

    So we have a 2012 Nissan Versa 1.8L S. The car just hit 103,000 miles. Up until a week ago the only issue we have ever had with this car has been one tail light and one headlight going out. We are now experiencing issues while trying to accelerate when going to change lanes or merge onto a highway. When merging onto the highway I will have the peddle all the way to the ground but the car will not increase in speed, instead it will do so at an incredibly slow rate, from 50mph to 60mph use to only take me a second but now it takes what feels like 5mins.

    Another example I will share is when I went to pick my wife up from work. The entire trip there our little Versa would not accelerate at all, then out of nowhere as if this car was done torturing my wife and I it suddenly regained all it’s ability to accelerate at the slightest flick of the peddle. The entire drive home, when opportunity allowed for it, I would test the acceleration of our car and sure enough it felt as good as the day we drove off the lot with it.

    I am unsure as to what could be causing the problem. I get the feeling that if whatever is causing this was in fact something major, mechanically speaking, our car would be exhibiting even more concerning signs than just the lack of the every now and then acceleration loss.

    I asked a friend who happens to be a technician if he could kindly test drive our car and see if he feels anything off about it. He connected an OBD2 Scanner to our Versa and sure enough not a single code. After test driving our car both on local roads and the highway he didn’t feel anything off about it. Not that I want there to be anything wrong with our car but if ever it was going to act up that would have been the perfect time for it.

    I’m hoping you’ll be able to share your thoughts on what you feel could be contributing to our Versas loss of acceleration. Any feedback or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

    • I’m not sure what it could be, since slow acceleration could be caused by a lot of things. Here are a few ideas:

      I’d start with the simple stuff. When was the last time the spark plugs were changed? Worn spark plugs can easily cause intermittent stumbling and hesitation. These are cheap and easy to replace, and I’ve had this happen with no codes on my own car. Perhaps your ignition coils are going out, which would exhibit similar symptoms. Pulling the spark plugs may tell you a lot about what’s wrong based on the way the tips look.

      If the engine air and fuel filters haven’t been changed in a while, it might not hurt to swap them out whether they are the root cause or not.

      If your symptoms persist, you’ll have to do some more testing to determine what is wrong. Have a mechanic help you out, or do some heavy googling to learn more about vehicle diagnostics. Acquiring a factory service manual or repair manual for your vehicle will help a lot.

      Remember that a car needs air, fuel, spark, and compression to run. If any of those things are out of balance, it won’t run right. Good luck, and let me know what you find!

  10. evening, honestly I don’t understand what’s going on with my car once it 6:30 pm my car will stop accelerating once I hit the break, have taken the car to computer it dictate 02 sensor bank 1, have changed the oxygen sensor still the same thing is happening, from 6am in the morning to 6:30 in the evening my car will work perfectly fine no problem, once sun set it will start please as anyone using corolla s 2006 experience such B4 please I’m becoming frustrated about this issue

    • I don’t understand. Your car should stop accelerating when you hit the brake (since that’s the point of the brake).

      Maybe you’re having a wiring issue where the headlights are drawing too much load and affecting something else, and that only happens after 6:30 PM when you need to use your headlights. I’m not sure.

    • I also have similar problem with my Corolla 09. Most often once it’s night, my car does not accelerate. Please anyone with a solution should kindly assist.

  11. I’m struggling with my vehicle , it makes a rattling noise constantly going uphill , when I accelerate it takes time to speed up sometimes when stopping it will shake a little.But when I travel in high speeds there’s no problem, I don’t know what’s wrong with my vehicle.

    • I don’t know. There are a lot of things that could cause rattling and a car that is slow to accelerate. I would have it checked out by a local mechanic for a better idea of what’s going on.

  12. Just changed the timing belt and water pump in 2001 Honda Civic. Idling way too low, won’t accelerate and shutting off. But only when the car is warm or hot.

  13. Good evening moderate, My minibus is not accelerating well. What can I do to rectify it.

    Thanj you.
    Abiodun Olorunfemi

  14. Just change the water pump and timing belt on Elantra Hyundai 2002 now it’s idling real fast when you crank the car and won’t boggle down and when you mash the gas it is not really got no compressed air compression or whatever


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