When your car is experiencing a rough idle, your engine may chug, vibrate, or shake while it’s running. This will cause your overall driving experience to feel rough and you’ll likely be bouncing a little bit in your seat from it.
When the engine idles, there will usually be a misfire that you can feel just from holding onto the steering wheel. Furthermore, the RPM of your engine will be higher than normal when the vehicle is idling.
The RPM will usually go back to normal as you accelerate the vehicle, but will increase again after you stop. This is definitely not a normal situation.
Reasons for a Rough Idle or High RPM
If you are experiencing a rough idle or your RPM is running high when idling, then there are a variety of reasons for why this could be happening. It is not always easy to diagnose the cause because there are so many factors involved here.
Below are the top causes that a mechanic would look for.
1) Bad Spark Plugs
If you have bad spark plugs because they’re worn out or damaged, then it could be causing your engine to be idling rough. Remember that spark plugs are what send a current of electricity into the internal combustion chamber to ignite the mixture of fuel and air.
If the spark plugs are bad, then the electrical current won’t be sufficient enough for the ignition. This will cause the fuel and air mixture to burn inconsistently, which will result in rough idling engine.
2) Bad Ignition Coils/Wires
If your ignition coils or spark plug wires have gone bad, you will experience similar symptoms to having bad spark plugs.
Ignition coils, coil packs, and spark plug wires transmit a very high voltage to the spark plug which enables electricity to jump the gap. If the insulation on these components has worn away, they may be unable to produce a consistent high voltage output.
Any time the spark is unable to jump the spark plug gap, that cylinder has a misfire and no power is produced on that particular combustion stroke.
3) Vacuum Leak
There are a lot of hoses that help deliver both fuel and air to the internal combustion chamber. One very common cause of idling rough is a problem with a vacuum hose in the vehicle. The hose could be damaged, loose, or worn out, creating a leak.
This could result in an abundance of air mixing with the gasoline, which would result in a misfire. Then, the result of that would be a car that is idling rough or having a higher than normal RPM.
4) Carburetor Issues
Carburetors were previously used in vehicles before fuel injectors were invented. Perhaps you have a vehicle which still has a carburetor in it.
If so, the carburetor itself could be having issues resulting in rough idling of the engine. A telltale sign of this would be if your exhaust was blowing out black smoke.
5) Dirty Fuel Injector
Fuel injectors are the modernized way in which vehicles deliver fuel into the internal combustion chamber. The only thing is that these fuel injectors can get dirty or clogged after a while.
If you are not using gas additives or fuel injector cleaners on a regular basis, then there’s a good chance you’ll get a dirty fuel injector at some point. This will result in your car idling poorly. You could also see your gas mileage take a nosedive as well.
Related: Best Fuel Injector Cleaners
6) Clogged Air Filter
The engine needs air from the outside to mix with the fuel in the internal combustion chamber. An important component under the hood of every car is an air filter which prevents debris from getting sucked into the chamber.
But if this air filter is dirty and becomes clogged, then there won’t be enough clean air passing through it. This will cause the engine to idle rough.
7) Bad Idle Air Control Valve
The idle air control valve (IAC or IACV) adjusts the amount of air that is allowed past the throttle body while the throttle plate is closed. This regulates the engine idle speed and allows idle to remain constant even if you switch on the air conditioning or turn on your headlights, both of which put more load on the engine.
If the idle air control valve did not compensate for these, the idle speed would drop when certain accessories are used. In severe cases, the engine may even stall.
The idle air control valve is most important on a cold startup. Problems with the idle air control will be most obvious during this time.
Related: Faulty PCV Valve Symptoms
8) Incorrect Cam Timing
Have you recently replaced the timing belt on your engine? If the timing belt is loose or off by a tooth or more, the engine will likely end up with a rough and lopey idle, if it runs at all.
When the valves are not timed correctly, the intake and exhaust valves are open when they shouldn’t be, which reduces compression and causes the combustion gasses to travel where they shouldn’t on that particular stroke.
9) Incorrect Ignition Timing
While cam timing is mechanically controlled by a timing belt or chain, ignition timing is controlled by the ECU and the distributor. Some vehicles have a crank or cam angle sensor instead of a distributor that can be manually adjusted to advance ignition timing in much the same way.
If ignition timing is incorrect, the car could run rough and often try to stall. You should be able to check your own ignition timing using a timing light. The procedure is different for every vehicle, so check a repair manual if you’re not sure how to do this yourself.
Things to Remember
Your engine should normally get to around 700 RPM after you start the vehicle, depending on the model. If your idle is way off and you have one or more of the problems listed above, then you will want to diagnose the issue right away.
The cost of the repair or replacement job will depend on what the cause was. If you take your vehicle to a repair shop soon, then your engine should be okay.
But if you’ve continued to let it idle poorly for too long, then there could be irreversible damage to the engine. This in turn could cost you thousands of dollars in repair or replacement costs. So, don’t wait for this to happen.
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My check engine light came on a few weeks a go.
Had the vehicle(07 Jeep Liberty)scanned twice.
Both times,it was the “engine idling higher than usual”.
I have noticed no changes to how the Jeep runs/performs/steers/brakes/sounds/accelerates.
The engine light turned itself off after several days,but than came back on this past Monday,October 17 2022.Today is Saturday October 22 2022.
Check engine light is still on,but again,like i mentioned…I am noticing any symptoms.But,i have yet to look under the hood.
I’m having the same issue with my 2007 Jeep Commander, did you ever find out what the problem was?
Got a car that idles high around 1600 RPM. Cleaned the throttle body thoroughly 2 times as well as checked for vacuum leaks. However after a 30 minute drive the RPM goes slightly down but not to the default range. Thanks Dude.
Peri
Are you able to check the air fuel ratio with a scan tool? What does it say, both at cold start and operating temperature?
Yes its normal 2.5 percent oscillating. All is fine with long term too. Thanks
Hi Sean, please advice on how do i do a smoke test?
You’d have to buy a tool like this, hook it up to your intake, and see where the smoke comes out. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JVT1NG2?tag=oarcom-20
If you don’t want to buy your own machine, many shops can do this for you and it’s fairly inexpensive.
hi good morning, I have Camry 2.2 am experiencing a rough idle when on park and the engine sound has drastically changed, the injector and fuel has been taken care of, yet it’s still same issues, though some leakage was discovered n also taking care of, so what could possibly be the problem? pls I need your comments on this.
How has the engine sound changed?
I have a 2006 Ford Taurus. Every so often the engine will idle at high speeds. I let it go on a back highway and hit 50mph without ever touching the gas pedal. Does anyone have an idea of what is going on and how to fix it?
Sounds like your throttle plate is stuck open a bit for some reason, or a vacuum leak. Best to get that checked out right away so it doesn’t turn into an unintended acceleration event.
My current vehicle – 2002 Jeep Liberty
RPM’s higher than normal. Getting about 250-260 miles to a full tank. A little loud when driving. I don’t think it’s shifting or gearing properly.
Idle goes down to about 600 or 700rpms after warming up from 1000rpms.
40 MPH =1500rpm
45 MPH =1700 – 1800rpm
Same from 50 – 60 MPH = 2000rpm or just a little more at 60
Last vehicle I had was a 2005 Jeep Liberty. I was getting nice gas mileage. No RPM issues with that.
Was getting about 380 miles to a full tank.
Idled under 500rpm most of the time.
50MPH = 1500rpm
55 MPH = 1700rpm
60 MPH = 2000rpm
I know it could be one of many different things from what I’ve read. What’s your take on this?
I forgot to mention that about twice when coming to a slow stop it seemed like it wanted to keep pulling forward I thought I was gonna rearend the vehicle in front of me.
Goodmorning,I just changed my transmission and i noticed that my RPM is high while on idle and also make an on usually noise when on load.pls advise
Sounds like you may have a vacuum leak. Have you verified that all vauum lines were pluggeed back in? I would try a smoke test next.
I have honda accord 1995 after changing timing belt and thermostat RPM goes up when engine reach the normal temp. Anyone know what could be wrong?
Make sure you haven’t introduced any vacuum leaks. People usually use a smoke tester for this. Next, check your timing to make sure you aren’t one tooth off or something.
After driving my 2007 mazda3 for about 10-20 minutes my AT light comes on and my car loses power. And when I go to put it up in park after it loses power it idles real high! It only does that in park. I have to shut it off. Then it won’t run right for the rest of the day. I bought a 2 new throttles and a gas pedal. My code is reading back Throttle/gas pedal position C switch. Anyone know what could be wrong?
My cars RPM goes up at Stop signs, Stop Lights and Crosswalks! Anyone know how to Get Shoes Shirts pants and hair out of the radiator grill of a car?
No seriously! reading half the stuff people write in the comments and it’s scary to think people are driving stuff like this. If you can’t fix something or don’t know how to even figure out what is causing it and it’s plan out common sense dangerous. Bring it to a person that can. Cause your not only putting yourself in danger but everyone else around you. Just be safe use common sense!
Thanks for this. What do you think about 1500 rpms in park, just over 1k when I hit the gas on a 2006 Ford Mustang? It JUST started making this struggling noise almost like when the AC is on but a lot louder. I’m doing some online research while I wait for the mechanic to call.
Sounds like you might have a vacuum leak. A smoke test will rule this out.
My trucks rpms flucuate at idle and sometimes feel like its goimg to shut the the truck off. Also sometimes my truck starts at a hight rmp over 2000. Plz help. Ive changed a bunch if parts and have put a lot if time and money into trying to figure it out. Its also not throwing a code
Sounds like you may have a vacuum leak or an issue with the idle air control valve. I would do a smoke test to see if that reveals anything.
Hello,
Firstly, thank you Sean for all the comments you answer, you seem like a cool dude. I hope I can throw this one at you… I have a 2003 Ford Taurus with 163k miles. When I start the car, the RPMs are high, about 2000. When putting it into drive, it reduces to 1500 but acts as though I’m pressing the throttle and takes some extra force on the brake to slow/stop. If I do not shift it into gear after start and leave it in park, the RPM will go up gradually and crash to 0 after reaching about 2300. If I do put the car in gear, after 5-10 minutes, it will achieve a normal idle (700-800) and drive smoothly for the rest of the day. I’ve just replaced the EGR valve, IAC valve, an injector (yeah just one), a PCV valve hose, and some EGR sensor and other parts were replaced when I got a blown head gasket replaced 5 months ago. All the spark plugs and wires were replaced in 2017. Obviously I’d like to get my money’s worth out of the expensive head gasket repair and the mechanic is exploring the problem diligently, but it seems elusive (and also expensive). Any advice you have would be really great.
Thanks Liz, I appreciate the comment. That’s a tough one, but it sounds a bit like a vacuum leak to me. If your mechanic hasn’t done a smoke test yet, I might start there. Perhaps the intake manifold gasket isn’t sealing well after the head gasket job, or something like that.
My car’s rpm goes high and sometimes it works normally. When high, the car stutters and almost dies off in third or fourth gear when acceleration pedal being pressed decently. High RPM stays around 1500 and doesn’t fall when car isn’t moving or accelerated. But sometimes it drives completely fine with no noticeable issues. What could be the issue? Got fuel injectors changed and oil but still the issue remains. Could it be faulty wiring and i should get whole writing replaced? Please suggest possible solutions to start with? Plz advise. Thanks
The car almost dies when you stab the gas pedal? The high RPM sounds like it may be a vacuum leak, but you can do a smoke test to know for sure if it is, and where the leak is. How are the spark plugs?
I have 07 Chevy impala LTZ. My rpm only runs high in the winter! During the day I can go multiple places but at night my rpm will run high. It’s strange. Every time I stop it runs higher and doesn’t go all the way down. Even when my car is off it’s still high and takes an hour or so for it to come all the way down. Doesn’t happen often. What could be the cause?
Sounds like a vacuum leak. If that’s the case, you can do a smoke test to find the source. The repair may be cheap (just a hose or something) but could be a bit more involved if it were an intake manifold gasket, for instance.
I have hyundai tucson 2009.at 90km speed the RPM reached 3..with loud engine sound.
In start mode RPM 800..stable.
Please advise me.
May rpm shaking at natural? Can you help Please may car malibu 2016, 20T
I’m not sure I understand. Rough idle? Probably best to get it looked at by a technician in your area.
When I start my honda city vtech it gets accelerated
I have a 2015 cruze. Its,idling high off and on for maybe a half of min at a time. Continually. Only does it when the car isn’t moving. Some say the ac is causing ? I dont think so. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
How high is it idling? Could be a vacuum leak or idle air control valve issue I suppose.
If your car is over 15 years old, suspect the main ECU capacitors.
Caps only last 15-20 years. Causes misfires, smoke, bad timing, fuel overuse, and so on. Even transmission shift issues.
Hi, I have been to plenty of mechanics even to honda dealership because my rpm sticks at 1300 even taking the foot off gas pedal and rpm will go up at 1300 and when braking the car will stop but the rpm wil jump up again causes vehicle to shake. No one is able to figure out the exact problems there no vaccum leaks. today mechanic told me that my alternator volts are should be 13.54 min but its 12.98v at 3000 rpm. IDK if alternator should cause this problem
I don’t think the alternator is the cause, but that may be a piece of the puzzle. Keep digging and see what else you can learn from testing various components.
Hi,
I have a 2012 Elantra it just started revving high this week at normal speeds. Around 3 grand and louder than usual. Wonder what that could be?
I have a 2012 Dodge Journey Crew, Going high way speed Rpm was close to redlining just to pick up to 70mph from 60 mph with light gas .!
High engine speeds won’t harm a healthy engine. On some vehicles (especially drive by wire vehicles), “light gas” could be close to wide open throttle. It depends on how the ECU is tuned.
Whether or not your symptoms are indicative of a problem I can’t say for sure without more information. Does it feel like the transmission is slipping, leading to high RPM? Is it downshifting to get to redline?
I have a 2009 Benz Sprinter that’s a passenger van but, I have been delivering bulk packages to the offices and my rpm are staying around 20 to 30. Any suggestions?
I am having the same problem with my 2003 Malibu for the last month. My car idles high and will speed up to 40 miles an hour by itself. The RPM runs up between 2 and 3. I took it to the dealer and since the check engine light does not come on they are unable to figure anything out. They did say the got an alert that some gas stations are selling winter gas instead of summer gas. Never heard of such a thing. Today we drove it and it drove at a speed of 40 miles per hour itself and when I pulled up the driveway and put it in park I couldn’t hardly put it back in drive. ‘what is going on?
It sounds like something is holding the throttle plate partially open, which could be very dangerous if it gets worse. A stuck throttle could lead to unintended acceleration. I would avoid driving the car until the issue is fixed.
If your throttle does get stuck, be aware that you should still be able to shift into neutral. Just bump the shift lever into neutral and pull over immediately when it is safe to do so. The engine will make a lot of noise, but it is always better to lose an engine than your life.
Consider finding a shop that can give you something better than the “winter vs summer gas” excuse. While gasoline additives do vary by season, they shouldn’t cause your car to behave that way.
I have a 2005 ford focus 1.6i, engine starts and dies straight away. If I keep my foot on the gas pedal then engine will keep running but rough as if off a cylinder. Changed plugs, ignition coils, air filter,throttle body and intake manifold cleaned out, made no difference, engine check light is on but not getting any codes on my scanner. compression test is normal.
Is the check engine light flashing? This usually indicates a misfire.
Has the timing belt been changed recently? One other cause of the symptoms you describe is incorrect timing. If the belt skipped a tooth, it would certainly cause a rough idle. If the ignition timing needs adjusting, you may also experience similar symptoms.
I would do some more testing before throwing any more parts at it. That game gets expensive pretty quickly.
There could be a problem with the firing order
I have a 2002 Toyota Celica the rpms is fine intill I get up to 80mph then it wants to stay over 4000. What could this possibility be?
It might just be the way that car is geared. Shorter gears mean higher engine speeds for a given ground speed. My Miata definitely sits around 4k RPM on the freeway and this is normal.
My car is 2004 toyota mark II. When I start the engine rpm was was too high even the gear was parking. When I change the gear to drive mode, then engine rpm was reduce. Please be advice me.
How high is “too high”? It could be a vacuum leak, but engines also tend to rev higher on cold start. It helps warm up the catalytic converter.
Good day guys I am having a Ford Focus model 2004 it has a higher rev I have tried changing lots of stuff but then nothing have changed yet I don’t know what to do anymore
You might have a vacuum leak. Performing a smoke test will tell you for sure. Once you correct any leaks see if idle improves.
When I start my car the rpm goes so high and it does so even when I push the gear on park position. The rpm reduces when I engage a gear. What could be the problem?
It could be a problem with the idle air control (IAC) valve, a vacuum leak, or a number of other things. You can check for vacuum leaks with a smoke test.
Hi.
I have a 2014 Rav4 and recently changed the Transmission. the RPM is Okey when i “start” the car, however when i push the gas to start driving, the RPM goes up to 4k and 5k and the car does not run or runs supper slow (an RPM of 5k with a speed of 5MPH). this also happens sometimes when i stop behind the red light. however, the car is doing fine on a higher speeds (runs smooth when above 40MPH). all this story started when i changed my transmission. Please advise
It sounds like the engine isn’t able to transfer enough torque to the transmission, due to a slipping clutch or torque converter. Check fluid levels and if they’re topped off, consider bringing the vehicle to a local mechanic for further inspection.
My car starts up good. But then starts to bounce and lights dim and junks in drive rpm go up and down but don’t die I changed the Sparks the coil and control module but still misfires on cylinder four I have 07 Chevy HHR 2.2 ECOTEC
hey sean my car does the same thing on low gears mechanics dont know the answer any more help or suggestions
I can’t think of any other suggestions. You might have to find a transmission shop that specializes in this kind of thing.
My car is exactly the same did you find the problem I just had a new tranny put in days ago
I ascertained my probelm, it was not clogged injectors, not the fuel, not the fule filter, nor spark plus, rotor arm, ignition cap, distributor, iginition module. c.o is spot on. dwel angel is spot on. The issue is the lack of lead (my car claims it runs on unleaded by the cast mark and contacting Ford UK/ E.U). Took the head off, placed new valve seats and problem sorted out. I have now a engine which runs on uleaded that I know for sure will run on unleaded fule. You cant trust Ford or any manufactuerer just look at the V.W scam over emissions anti lock brakes freezing the list goes on.
I have honda acty van
.my van rpm goes up.when i put into the gear whats the problem
My Toyota corolla 2011 has a high rpm when the engine is switched on. At driving, the speed is fast, break becomes hard and takes greater pressure on the break pedal to stop or slow downs the car, what is the problem.
It sounds like something is holding the throttle plate open, even when you are not stepping on the gas pedal.
You should get this diagnosed as soon as possible to prevent unintended acceleration. If that’s what’s going on, it has the potential to be very dangerous.
Replace your brake booster. Problem solved. Or check the vacuum line from the brake booster to motor for leaks/cracks etc…
My Opel Astra 1,6 overreves, and problem starting
I have a chev aveo 1.5 2009 model hashback my idling is too high and sometimes is fine it is mulfuctining what mightvthe cause because i did replace the trottle sensor and idling sensor but still doing the same thing
I’d start by checking for vacuum leaks.
Our Aveo had same problem. It had two problems. Idle valve controler and a blocked catalytic converter, which we took out.
Mine was the mass air flow sensor
I have an exhaust leak I’ve got a broken bolt in the exhaust manifold so I can’t get a bolt in it I now have a jeep wrangled that idles too high just started today I’ve not drove it very far how much will this cost if I take it to a jeep dealership to fix it
It will cost whatever they charge you.
Wow. You’re helpful.