The ECU is the Engine Control Unit of your vehicle. It’s also commonly referred to as the ECM (Engine Control Module) or even a PCM (Powertrain Control Module), although a PCM has additional functions as well.
This electronic module is a built-in computer which your vehicle depends on for managing a variety of its systems and functions. Think of it as the vehicle’s brain. The engine and drivetrain depend heavily on the ECU.
Using numerous electronic sensors, chips, and components within the vehicle, the ECU can transmit data feedback to the engine. This feedback determines which function the engine will perform next.
This process is essential for calculating the correct amount of air and fuel needed for internal combustion. As a result, the vehicle can achieve better fuel efficiency.
Read also: Car Immobilizer: Basic Function and Bad Symptoms
Common Reasons for ECU Problems
The ECU regulates virtually every important system and function in your vehicle. If you were to ever have a bad ECU, then quite a few noticeable symptoms would present themselves. It wouldn’t take you long to realize the ECU was responsible.
But why does an ECU fail in the first place? There are many internal factors that can contribute to its malfunction. Here are the most likely causes of a faulty ECU:
1) Dead Battery
Car batteries have electronic cells that need to function for the ECU to work properly. If any cells in your car battery die, your ECU will soon fail. Once all the cells are dead, the battery is considered dead, and your entire vehicle won’t function.
You won’t be able to start your vehicle or run the engine. So, watch for early warning signs of a malfunctioning ECU and have your battery examined promptly.
2) Corrosion
The ECU has seals around it to prevent moisture from entering. However, after several years, these seals can wear out. If the seals become too worn, moisture can more easily pass through them and enter the ECU.
Moisture inside an ECU (or any other electronic component) is problematic because it leads to corrosion on its components. If the corrosion isn’t cleaned away quickly, it will damage these components, resulting in a malfunctioning ECU.
Related: How to Clean Corroded Battery Terminals
3) Low Voltage
Most modern ECUs are designed to operate within a specific voltage range, typically between 9 and 16 volts, with 12 to 14 volts being optimal. You can check the voltage by connecting a voltmeter to the wiring that runs into the ECU’s harness.
This device will detect how much voltage is running through the ECU. If the voltage consistently falls below 9 volts or fluctuates erratically, this is likely causing your ECU problems. Prolonged exposure to low voltage can lead to erratic behavior or failure of the ECU.
While an ECU might still function at lower voltages, it may not operate correctly or reliably. This can lead to various issues with engine performance and other vehicle systems.
4) Incorrect Jump Starting
When jump-starting your battery, make sure to attach the jumper cables correctly. If you attempt to jump-start your vehicle with the cables attached incorrectly, it could short out your ECU by causing a sudden voltage spike.
This situation will require ECU repair or possibly even replacement, which can cost thousands of dollars.
5) Bad Starter
Many vehicles have starters with their own sensors. One of these is the override sensor, which manages how many volts the ECU receives.
If this sensor fails, the ECU won’t receive the correct voltage. This will cause it to malfunction and lead to further problems in your vehicle.
Another issue can arise if you replace your starter motor with a new one that’s incompatible with your vehicle’s ECU. Make sure any new starter that you purchase has the right sensors to communicate properly with the ECU.
6) Electrical System Overload
The ECU is part of a complex electrical network in modern vehicles. Power surges from other components or aftermarket accessories can potentially overload and damage the ECU. This is particularly common when installing high-powered audio systems or other electrical upgrades without properly accounting for the increased power demand.
To avoid this, don’t attempt any aftermarket installations if you’re not 100% confident in your abilities. For most individuals, it’s best to leave audio upgrades to the professionals.
7) Software Issues and Chip Tuning
Modern ECUs rely heavily on software to control various vehicle functions. Software glitches, corrupted data, or failed updates can cause ECU malfunctions or even complete failure (bricking). Additionally, chip tuning or ECU remapping, while popular for increasing performance, introduces additional risks if not done properly.
Chip tuning involves modifying the ECU’s software to alter engine parameters like fuel injection timing, boost pressure, and rev limits. While this can increase power output and efficiency, it can also stress engine components beyond their design limits.
Poorly executed remapping can lead to engine damage, increased emissions, and in most cases, voided warranties. On top of that, some remapped ECUs may become unstable or fail completely and your car manufacturer is not going to bail you out.
If considering chip tuning, it’s crucial to use reputable tuners and understand the potential risks. If still under the original vehicle warranty, it’s usually best to wait until you are out of coverage. In almost every case, the dealership can quickly determine whether your vehicle has been “chipped” and will in most cases, not cover any future warranty work.
If you still insist of a chip tune, be sure to keep a backup of the original ECU software and be prepared for the possibility that remapping could lead to ECU issues down the line.
8) Manufacturing Defects
While relatively rare, there’s always a small chance that an ECU may have inherent flaws from the factory that leads to premature failure. These defects can range from faulty components to improper assembly.
In some cases, manufacturers may issue recalls for known ECU problems. That’s why it’s important to register your vehicle to stay informed about any recalls or technical service bulletins for your vehicle.
If you or your mechanic suspects a manufacturing defect, document all symptoms and consult with your dealership. They may be able to provide repairs or replacements under warranty, even if the standard warranty period has expired.
Diagnosing ECU Failure (Step-by-Step)
Step 1. Check the Check Engine Light
Look at your dashboard when you start the car. The Check Engine Light (CEL) should briefly illuminate and then go out. If it stays on, it may indicate an ECU problem, though it could also signal other issues.
A constantly lit or flashing CEL requires further investigation. Note that in some ECU failures, the light might not come on at all.
Step 2. Use an OBD-II Scanner
Plug an OBD-II scanner into your car’s diagnostic port, typically located under the dashboard on the driver’s side. Turn the ignition on without starting the engine, then follow the scanner’s instructions to read error codes.
Look for codes starting with “P06,” as these often relate to ECU issues. Examples include:
- P0600: Serial Communication Link Malfunction
- P0606: ECM/PCM Processor Fault
- P0607: Control Module Performance
Write down any codes you find. Even if they don’t start with P06, they could provide clues about what’s affecting your ECU.
Step 3. Inspect Battery and Connections
Check your car’s battery and its connections. Look for signs of damage on the battery itself (such as cracks or bulges) and check the terminals for corrosion (a white, green, or blue powdery substance).
If any corrosion atop the battery exists, clean it following our instructions. Confirm that all connections are tight, both at the battery and where cables connect to the car.
A weak battery or poor connections can mimic ECU problems, so addressing these issues may solve the problem.
Step 4. Test Battery Voltage
Use a multimeter to check your battery’s voltage. It should read 12.4-12.7 volts with the engine off, and 13.7-14.7 volts when running.
Any reading outside these ranges may indicate charging system problems that could be affecting the ECU. Low voltage can cause ECU malfunction, while high voltage might damage it.
Step 5. Check Fuses and Relays
Find your car’s fuse box and inspect fuses related to the ECU. Replace any fuse that’s blown and check/test relays connected to the ECU.
Faulty fuses or relays can disrupt power supply, causing symptoms very similar to ECU failure. Consult your owner’s manual to locate the correct fuses and relays if you’re not sure where to look.
Step 6. Look for Visible Damage
Visually inspect the ECU and its wiring harness. The ECU is normally under the dashboard or in the engine bay but may also be located elsewhere, like under the center console. If your owner’s manual doesn’t specify the location, you may need to search online or purchase a vehicle-specific service manual (a great investment if you plan on doing any car maintenance or repair).
Look for signs of physical damage, water intrusion, or heat damage. Check for corroded connections or frayed wires. Any visible damage could explain ECU malfunction and will likely require professional repair or replacement.
Step 7. Monitor Engine Performance
Observe how your engine runs. Notice any rough idling, stalling, misfire, or sudden changed in fuel efficiency? Any of these can indicate ECU problems (among other things).
Keep track of any unusual behavior, especially if it coincides with other symptoms. Persistent performance issues, particularly after addressing other potential causes, may point to an ECU issue.
Step 8. Test Sensor Inputs
Use a multimeter to test various sensor inputs to the ECU, such as the MAF sensor or O2 sensor. These types of faulty sensors can imitate ECU failure symptoms.
Again, consult a service manual or online source for proper testing procedures and expected readings. If sensor readings are off, replacing the sensor might solve the problem without needing to address the ECU itself.
Step 9. Perform a Voltage Drop Test
Check for voltage drops across the ECU’s power and ground connections using a multimeter. Significant drops can indicate wiring problems affecting ECU performance.
This test requires some technical knowledge, so consider getting help if you’re unsure if this process.
Step 10. Consult a Professional
If you’ve completed all the steps above and still suspect ECU failure, it’s time to consult a professional mechanic or dealership. They have advanced diagnostic tools and expertise to pinpoint ECU issues definitively.
A technician can perform more complex tests and determine whether the ECU needs repair or replacement, or if the problem is completely unrelated.
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Hi c180k w203 merc I started the car in the morning it started fine while ldiling for a few minutes I heard it it wanted to cut of and picked up rev immediately there after but I drove for about 30 kms switched off after 20 min tried to start it refused to start pls help
Hi. I have a Opel Zafira A. The ECU is attached to the injection pump in this cars. A few months ago it stoped working. The car wasn’t starting. With the computer we saw it was the injection pump damaged. So we remove the module and sent it to be fixed. After fixed the mechanic mounted it again and the car worked for 20 days more or less. But then it got broken again. Removed the module again , fixed and mounted again. The car worked for 15 days. After this I decided not to repair the module again. I bought a used pump and mounted it on my Zafira. It worked during almost 15 days, but then it stoped working again. The guy who fixed the module in the first 2 times said the module was burnt , so there would be something that would be damaging the module. Now after I installed the used pump I think he might have reason. Do you have any idea about this? Thanks
Hi my car is Mazda m6 2005model my ecu got damaged and I called for someone to replaced it,but it end up damaging 2ecu,pls what do I do as am afraid of getting another ecu because of the cost
What made you suspect the root cause was the ECU?
Hey, I have an Elantra 2012 1.6 CC model. The RPM is fixed at 2000 – 25000 with the Engine light ON. After checking the code, I received P0626, P2128, P2138. Funny thing: I have changed the throttle body and the pedal position sensor but cannot make any impact. The strange thing is after even resetting ECU the code is not going and in the end, the technician asked to change the ECU. I would appreciate your comment on this. Also, if I have to replace the ECU, do I have to change anything with it like an immobilizer or key? Or simply changing the ECU with the same ECU model and product number can make an impact? I have to purchase it from the Hyundai dealers and there is no way to return it back to them once used, so I would highly appreciate your help with this. Thanks.
Before replacing the ECU, check a service manual to see where the alternator and throttle position sensor share part of the harness. I would check there for broken wires, shorts, missing insulation, etc first before doing anything else. Replacing an ECU is much more expensive than fixing a wiring issue and you want to make sure that’s the root of the problem before trying it.
Check your grounds while you’re in there. Make sure all grounds are clean and tightened.
Hi I have a VW Caravelle 2.6i my bus was running i parked it off for 2 weeks the day i decided to use it , it only cranks and does not start we tried everything , it has spark , fuel , checked the distributer and coil fuel pump and even checked if the injectors were spraying out fuel to the plugs and all is working fine , My bus has no alarm , we all suspecting its the ECU cause the guy i bought it from 4 years ago had the simlar problem and he sorted out the ECU .
I tried different people who knows about busses and they all point out to the computer box .
What must be the problem with my bus ?
Could be the ECU, but have you also checked that the timing is correct? Could the timing belt have skipped a tooth or something?
Hi
, I have opel Corsa gamma 1.4 is now giving me problem since I changed a cylinder head it doesn’t wanna start but it cranks then it shows engine check light,, is it a computer box or what?
Double check that the vehicle is timed correctly and that all crankshaft/camshaft sensors have been plugged in. What is the check engine light for?
Maybe you have a fuel pump issue. A faulty fuel pump can cause problems in your best bet would be to look on you to or ask a friend or a mechanic friend did you can trust hopefully it won’t be something else
Type in your problem on YouTube and you’re fine a various response that may help you lead to your issue and getting you some answers good luck
i have Hyundai accent 1.6 2010, i have an issue with it as it is cracking but not starting, it was scanned it codes shows transponder error, key reprogrammed but still did not start, when scanned again after key being programmed engine results are not appearing it only shows a question mark next to engine(?). but when i pour petrol manually in a cuborator it starts but stop after a minute.
i have a Suzuki grand Vitara 2008 v6 the approximate mileage is 170000 Km, i have an issue with it the car is cracking but not starting i re programed the key then it starts but when i switched the ignition again it returns to cracking and its not starting so tired to program the key again but unfortunately the i couldn’t communicate with the ecu and i check the wiring and fuse box i changed the ecu or bcm but still cant determine the problem
My car computer box seems to have a fault since the reverse gear is not functioning properly. My mechanic disconnected power to the computer box and the car is running well. If I keep driving the car in this situation, what will be the problem to my car?
Thanks..
I don’t know how the car could even start without an ECU. Could you clarify with your mechanic exactly which “computer box” he unplugged?
You did not mention if you have an automatic or a standard automobile. Usually if you have a standard it will involve the clutch in all its body flywheel and search and all that stuff.
If you have an automatic then it will have to do with somewhere in the transmission area.
Your immediate help would be on YouTube. Good luck
I’ve Audi A3 2000 model. One of my cylinders is not working and I’ve been told that my brainbox is the problem after been scanned. I want to buy a new brainbox. Can someone help? How can I?
You can pick up a new ECU/ECM (what you’re calling a brainbox) at the salvage yard or online.
It sounds like you may have a bad connection concerning your cylinder which requires electricity. Your cylinder is connected to a spark plug.
If I understand correctly it is part of a harness which you can probably replace yourself if you ordered online on Amazon or go to the Pick-A-Part junkyard and get it a new one or used one.
It would help if you watch you to somewhere and you will find what you are looking for. Good luck
Do you have the old one yet if so down load the program vin number and then flash the new one you must have the same part numbers too
When you get the se one pull the vital info off the old one when you hook the new one up wipe it then reset it with the numbers from the old one in it then make new keys
Engine cranks but does not fire. Fuel gauge does not move. No check engine light. All other dash lights work. Leave switch in on position for 15 seconds check engine light comes on, other lights are off. I replaced the ECM with a rebuilt one ( new module not available for van this old), it worked for 2 starts of engine, then failed.
1999 Dodge Ram Van 3500, I am the original owner. Mileage 57,500 miles. Now have 2 ECMs that do not work. Auto mechanic worked for 4 hours, could not discover what caused the failures.
What was the code after the check engine light came on?
If your check engine light comes on you can go to AutoZone or any hardware place and they will give you some answers to what the codes could be which will lead to your answers that you are seeking
Had a new PCM programed and installed by mechanic, now runs worst than the original that had code p601, what next?Was the programming incorrect?
Perhaps it needs time to learn and adjust engine parameters. Did it throw another code?
Mine will run fine a week,then sputters ,nut when in drive it dies, wont run at all no communication with ecu ,then when it runs fine it connects to ecu no codes but speed sensor. 96 lexus we cant find anything wrong with it im mailing my ecu out for repair .
When testing my connector from my ECU to my throttle control sensor I am getting a high volt number on one terminal. On the 3 terminals I am getting .5 volts on the bottom and middle prong inserts, but the top reads a high 78.4 volts. I this a sign my ECU is bad?
78.4 is quite high, but I wouldn’t be so quick to blame the ECU. It sounds like you may have an electrical short somewhere, and you’ll probably have to do some in depth electrical diagnostics to find the root cause. Consult your vehicle’s factory service manual to confirm the expected voltages on your throttle position sensor pins, and work backwards from there to the ECU. You can also test the pin on the ECU to see what voltage is expected and what is actually produced for the throttle position.
Would this article be suggesting about BMWs? What year? What other makes?
I have a 1999 ford f150. My ignition cylinder lock broke. My car wouldn’t turn off so I pulled the fuse to the ignition switch to get the truck to shut off. Could that cause the ECM to fail? I changed the ignition cylinder lock and then programmed the key. The new key wouldn’t program properly. I called a locksmith to program my key. Once he arrived he tried programming the key which failed. So he then replaced the security relay antenna as well as my dash cluster. Which still wouldn’t program or start. Then he mentioned the ECM may be fried or damaged. So I am wondering could the ECM be the problem or is it something else?
Hello!
We bought a freelander 2009 and before it’s left the forecourt they’ve got someone working on the ECU. Apparently it’s not talking to the gearbox … but ECU gearbox is fine.
If they manage to rectify it should we accept the car or leave well clear …
Any opinions most welcome. Thanks!
Hi , my ABS/Traction control warning lights came on on dashboard! Scan tool said ecu internal fault! Any suggestions would help me so much?
What year, make, and model is your vehicle?
Hello,
i would like to make a question,i tried to connect a diesel blow off valve on a ford fiesta 1.4 diesel 2011 kjva engine code, i did a mistake and i connected the signal wire that blow off valve operates to the signal wire of the throttle position sensor after that i have malfunction to my ecu, can you tell me if with my action i did something to cause the issue? (when i open the board of the blow off valve i noticed a bridging between the pins)
Oh when it was parked it was running fine, no check engine light or any warning signs
Hi I think my EC may be bad… If my van was used to JumpStart another and was incorrectly connected, would the ECM stop working immediately or would it take a couple of times that it ran before I could not start my van.. it was jumped sat a couple of days then I drove it about 20 miles, turned off, got back in a few hours later drove probably another 15 miles turned it off 2 days later it cranks but wont start… I pulled over codes and I get a bad reading on just about every components attached to the ECM
did you ever figure out if it was your ECM?
Hello, i have an ignition coil issue on my VW Transporter 2001 T4 AAC engine 2.0. The coil is overheating and needs to be replaced frequently, had the vehicle checked by a mechanic that replaced plugs, distributor cap and rotor, hall sensor, leads,battery.But the problem remains the same and i need to carry a spare coil at all time.I am not an expert , but could the ECU be at fault? Please help!
I don’t know if the ECU could be the cause or not. I suspect you may have a bad ground somewhere.
My car has been experiencing overheating problems for about a month. I have a 2011 Nissan Pathfinder with about 130K miles. We replaced the thermostat (double checked it – its good and opens at 180 degrees), replaced the radiator cap, replaced the radiator, flushed the radiator, and burped her several times. I hooked up my code reader last night and she finally showed codes P1217 & P0113. I looked them up and I’m wondering if it is my Mass Air Flow sensor, because my Intake Air Temperature sensor is built into the MAF. We checked our fan clutch and compared it to a brand new one and it’s fine too, we also tested my water pump and that’s working just fine as well. I have no leaks (other than when I overheat – water is pushed back out of the reservoir), but if I have my heater on it works as a second radiator and prevents my car from entering the ‘hot zone’. Could my MAF cause the overheating issue?
No, the MAF probably isn’t causing the overheating issue. You might want to do a leak down test. While performing the test, if air leaks into the cooling system you probably have a failed head gasket.
My 2000 VW Beetle 1.8 turbo mst have an intermittent parasitic batttery drain, perhaps due to the turbo warmdown ciruitry. I am having difficulty diagnosing it (my multiemeters just read zero milliamps I will keep trying) and until I figure that out, if ever, I was thinking of disconnecting the battery when I park overnight. I am worried that the ECU might lose important settings to the point the car won’t start or run decently or that I will have to keep dealing with a throttle reset and other headaches. On the other hand, every time I had a dead battery, such as when the car was down for several weeks, all i had to do is jump start the car and it ran fine. Any thoughts?
Most ECUs have some form of non-volatile storage to save critical information, even when there’s no power to the ECU. Disconnecting the battery should work fine in the short term until you’re able to diagnose the parasitic drain.
I’m chasing a PO172 code on my 01 Tacoma 2.7 after addressing a misfire on #3 cylinder. Changed plugs and injectors and ran okay for a couple weeks then PO172 code comes up. Changed O2 sensors, MAF, fuel pressure regulator, ERG, and ECT. Mechanic told he has no idea why fuel trims off and that I should change the ECM. Took it to another mechanic who looked at it and told me he has no idea what’s wrong with it but doesn’t think its the ECM. So anyhow, I”m going to replace the ECM. If that doesn’t work do you think its possible that I did something wrong when installing the injectors? I’m not getting and fuel leaks and they are Denso, however I didn’t replace the seals.
I agree with your second mechanic; I have no idea why fuel trims are off but don’t think it’s the ECM. Are the fuel trims off only on cylinder #3?
Try switching the spark plugs and injectors around and see if the problem follows them around. Don’t switch the injectors and plugs at the same time though – switch the injectors, see if the problem follows the old #3 injector around, then repeat the process with the spark plugs.
Might not hurt to test the voltage received by each injector either.
My Toyota sienna 2001xle show security indicator light on dashboard refuse off and is not starting
I have a DS5 and it has cut out on me with only an inadequate 1 second warning of engine failure on 2 occasions over the past 2 year. Last time it was the main fusebox that needed replacing but this time it looks like the ECU will need replacing and Citroen have quoted £8000 to get it fixed if they don’t find another cause. I don’t think the 2012 DS5 Hybrid is worth that much and what I worry about is that the hybrid batteries might also need replacing and this could all end up devastatingly costly. A car that shuts down after a 1 second warning, to me, is extremely dangerous especially when driving in the fast lane on a motorway and it beggars belief that a big company like Citroen do not put a failsafe in place? I don’t really know what I should do; Cut my losses and run or go the whole pricey hog and get it fixed, if that is actually possible. I don’t know if Citroen would give me any compensation and wouldn’t know where to begin to ask? It’s a huge worry!
Check for recalls, and check to see if your car is under warranty. In either case, Citroen may be of help.
Wondering if maybe you could explain why when I test a specific sensor on my ECM(ECU) for my 2010 Subaru Forester I am not getting the same results as the dealerships Special Scan Monitor.
There monitor say everything is within range, but when I do the multimeter test from the manual I’m not getting the same values actually way out of range. I am on the correct pins and following the instructions to the “t”. also every time I do this it triggers a bunch of engine codes, which forces me to unplug the battery to reset everything then they never come back….
Any thoughts?
Check to make sure your multimeter is set correctly.
How was the ECU identified as the root cause? Since the misfire keeps returning I am wondering if the issue lies elsewhere, such as a bad ground or ignition coil.
I have a 2009 Saturn Vue with 132,000. It runs great so long as the codes don’t go off. The Service Stabilitrak code recently started going off, then the brake code and the ABS code, then all of a sudden that little car with the wrench inside came on and the car drove in safe mode. I had it towed, and looked at and the mechanic said there are 14 codes in the ECM alone which suggests communication issues. He also said there is a possible internal fault in the PCM. I thought the ECM and PCM were the same – are they 2 separate modules in a Saturn? Well, I agreed to have them test it further because these codes only go off intermittantly then stop for a couple days, then start going off again. What do you think?
ECM and PCM usually refer to the same module, but transmission computers (TCMs) are often separate.
08 sub outback 141k miles
14 months ago I was getting a check engine light and found the error code p0306, cylinder 6 misfire. after changing the spark plugs and ignition coil packs I was still getting the failure. a subaru specialist diagnosed a bad ecu and changed it.
last week I got another check engine light with p0301 & p0306, cylinder 1 & 6 misfire. the subaru dealership diagnosed another bad ecu. from what you’ve listed here I’m guessing that the voltage is too much or too little and shorting out the ecu. i know little about the electronics, how would I be able to diagnose what the cause could be as far as an improper voltage? are there other common causes to ecu failure??
How did the dealership identify the ECU as the root cause? Since the misfire keeps returning I’m wondering if the issue lies elsewhere. If I were in your situation, I would start my troubleshooting at the very basics, assuming I had no info about the problem at all.
When doing diagnostic work, take care to not assume a component is good until you have tested and verified that the component is working properly. This is the only way to reliably narrow down the problem scope and find the root cause.
Check for technical service bulletins (TSBs) on your car related to misfire codes. The Subaru community is a very active and helpful one. Browse the Outback forums for people who had the same issue. You can try googling something like “08 outback H6 cylinder 1 and 6 misfire”
To rule out air and fuel, check fuel trims to make sure it isn’t running too rich or lean, as this could also cause a misfire. Fuel trims can be checked with a scan tool. Strong compensation one way or the other could mean a vacuum leak, clogged or leaky injector, etc.
If you have an electrical short, a fuse should blow to prevent damage to the ECU. Check all fuses to make sure none are blown. For any further electrical troubleshooting, you’re going to need a multimeter and a wiring diagram for your vehicle handy. Do note that fuses probably won’t protect the ECU if there is a bad connection on the ECU’s circuit board that is causing some short or open circuit.
It never hurts to test the health of your battery and alternator before diving into an electrical issue either. Good luck.
My ecu went wrong because moisture got in, I’ve replaced it, the ecu board itself has a metal cage and in my car this goes inside a plastic box on the engine bay, I don’t how how water got in inside this plastic box, I’m thinking of sealing the box, so this new ECU don’t go wrong, what kind of RTV silicone or substance would you recommend to seal this box?
my Cadillac escalade made aloud pop under the hood from the left hand side. my truck then cut off as i pulled over.i thought i had a blow out but my tires was good..when i tried to start it it would not start. i changed fuel pump,spark plugs,battery starter still will not start. it turns over though. i see the pcm is under the hood under the left side could this be the cause?
I’m not sure. If you heard a loud pop, something should be obviously broken or out of place. I’d poke around a bit more, then check for the presence of fuel and spark when you crank it.
Hi
My Toyota corolla automatic developed a problem where the accelerator is not changing. It drives slowly with the gears not selecting. I change the TPS but still, could it be the ECM?
It might be in limp mode. Scan for codes, they may give you a clue what the problem is. It’d probably be best to take it to a shop.
My 2015 Nissan Altima was having issues. We ran codes and changed all the sensors that were identified. Then one day it just stopped. We had it checked and now we are getting a code related to voltage and the ecm. The car will only run for 8-10 seconds at a time. How expensive will it be to repair?
Those codes just give you insight into the root cause; the sensors they reference may not be the root cause of the issue themselves.
In some cases, an electrical issue could cause several systems to fail due to incorrect voltage, too much resistance, etc. Changing each sensor isn’t going to help in this situation, since the problem is with the wiring somewhere. I’ve seen an ignition switch failure that triggered the airbag light, ABS light, check engine light, and stopped the power windows from working.
More diagnostic testing is needed before you can get an accurate repair estimate.
Hi everybody.
Got a mercedes cla amg 45 and took it for polish shampoo. Drove the car there all okay. I got a call from the shop that the car wasn’t starting on the next day. They started it, moved it to the first washing step and then they said it didn’t start. They tried to jump start it (don’t know if smth stupid happened there, incorrect connections) and when I went there I air-sprayed at ECM cables and drops of water came out. They denied they washed the engine and the owner later said he did it himself with vapor. The thing is I took it to mercedes repair shop they opened the ECM and said they found corrosion in it and that it’s hard to define the actual reason for the failure. IF that was the case, wouldn’t I had some indication from the slow corrosion process that things are not right i.e. lights, applications, sensors…?
My car a missing problem which is unstable slow speed . It comes down automatically and its also raise . There is also staring trouble like engine is not stable while i jumb small humbs and gutters . Totally body is shivering while my car showing missing .
Thank you I will do that.
Can you tell me if the RAC done a diagnostic on my car and it came up with ECU problem
Can a battery cause that to come up as a ECU.
Thank you for your help .
Hi I have a Citroen c4 hatchback 2010
I have an intermittent problem .
My car can start perfectly fine one day and the next not start at all completely dead no radio no lights nothing which can last a few days and out the blue starts again.
I called the RAC out they have told me I have a ECU problem
And the car has had it .
Any advice would be appreciated .
Before you try to replace the ECU, check your battery connections. Make sure the terminals are tight and free of corrosion. I’ve had a car that wouldn’t start because the corrosion was so bad.
Sorry for the late reply
I had a diagnostic test done by the RAC .
can a bad battery connection show as a ECU problem on a diagnostic test just wondering as the RAC told me to get rid of my car
Thanks for your help .
I have a jeep liberty ‘05. It keeps blowing asd fuse. Gauges and warning lights keep coming on. Won’t crank. Any idea where to start? Are these ECU symptoms?
Sounds like a short somewhere. Check the simple stuff first – make sure the battery is good and hooked up properly.
I have a 2019 Hyundai Kona with less than 10k mileage. One day both stability control and downhill brake control lights turned on and won’t go off. The following day the check engine light turned on. All three lights won’t go off and I started to feel the engine having a hard time moving from standstill every time the vehicle senses the car is in a sloping position. Service told me the ECU will need to be replaced. I asked him what was the possible cause of the early ECU malfunction but he said he didn’t know as well. Do you have an idea? Thanks.
Not sure. At that mileage, if it wasn’t damaged it is probably a manufacturing defect that should be covered under warranty.
Hi… I have a 2002 Chevy Avalanche, 1500, 5.3T motor. It idle is a little rough and has no power. The codes I get are P0170, P0174 and a p0300. Things I’ve replaced MAF, MAP, plugs, coils, wires, all 4 O2 sensors, the fuel pump, the intake manifold gaskets, all injectors. Smoke Tested also… found no leaks. Checked the back pressure of the one cat and it was good. Didn’t check the other cat though. After changing all these parts a lot of the misfires went away and it did run better. I’m still getting the same codes though. Though the power did get better it’s still has a hard time getting out of it’s own way. Going up hills is when it’ll start misfiring. My LT fuel trims are pegged at 25% and the short terms are hovering around 0 at idle. When I start giving it the gas the short terms go up and the long terms go down but the average together is around 25%. I have a tech 2 scanner I’m using. Why I think it maybe the ECU is because I keep loosing signal on my Tech 2. I bought the Tech 2 used so I hope it isn’t that. So, I had a constant reoccurring of #6 misfiring for the longest time. Even after I switched coil, plug and wire it would still misfire. Checked for actual spark… and that was good. Then all of a sudden the #6 misfire went away as 2 other misfires appeared. swapped components and checked it again and now the misfires were on two other unrelated cylinders. I am totally at a loss… please help, thanks
That’s very strange. It sounds like you have your bases covered with the simple tests; you certainly covered all my initial suggestions.
The fact that your short term fuel trims are around 0 at idle is a good sign. I am more concerned with the short term fuel trims rising as you increase engine speed. This leads me to believe there is a fueling issue where the engine is not getting enough fuel under load.
Since you already smoke tested and verified you have no leaks, I would take a closer look at the fuel system. Perform a fuel pressure test to make sure you’re getting adequate pressure at the fuel rails, particularly on bank 1 where the code was thrown. If one rail is bad or leaking, I would expect a higher ST fuel trim on that bank.
You might consider pulling the injectors and either have them cleaned or tested to make sure they aren’t clogged, but since the misfires were across multiple cylinders I am more inclined to believe it is an issue with the fuel pressure regulator or fuel rail on bank 1. Good luck, hope that helps a bit.
Hi Sean.. thanks for the reply. Here’s what I have done within 8 months ago… I was told that the fuel pressure for the T model Avalanche is to be 55psi or higher. After changing the fuel pump 3 times before getting one to operate at somewhat of that 55psi range. Maybe this is the problem??? The last fuel pump puts out 50psi at idle and pegs out at 59psi at WOT. I figured is was good. Then I changed some fuel lines, fuel filter and the injectors. These injectors were to be like a factory upgrade injector without having to retune the motor. The original injectors were, I think, 48-50psi to open and they were also a 2 hole injectors. These upgrades were 28psi to open and was a 4 hole injector. Could either of these be the problem? Could it be the ECU?
Sorry just thought of something else too… I did replace the fuel regulator and it seems to be working… but when I was doing the smoke test a little smoke was weeping out the very top of the regulator. Is that normal?
Check the flow rate on the injectors to make sure they are similar to the factory ones. Do you still have a set of factory injectors? I would try them to see if it fixes the problem. I am skeptical of changing injectors like that without retuning… that may be your issue.
I don’t think the fuel pressure regulator should let smoke out like that.
Hi Sean… I’ve been looking around the internet and came across the fuel pressure specs. I found this “4.8L, 5.3L, 6.0L or 8.1L your fuel pressure should be 55 – 62 psi with the key on – engine off”. The fuel pump I have now has the pressure of 50-59 psi. In your professional opinion is this sufficient enough? Plus also, I’m going to order a original set of 2 hole injectors for the truck to see if makes a difference as you said.
I’m not sure about the fuel pressure. I would do a bit of searching on the forums to see if you can compare your numbers to those of other owners with the same engine.
I don’t like to change a bunch of parts at the same time because it often makes it really hard to troubleshoot when something goes wrong. Is a new part defective, incompatible, or hooked up wrong? Which new part is causing the issue? Did I simply break something while I was in there? Am I experiencing symptoms from two separate issues?
If you still have your original fuel pump, you could try switching back and checking the pressure to see if it’s similar.
Thanks Sean!
Hey Sean, just an update… found remanufactured injectors and ECU at an affordable price. You were right in steering away from the ECU. Replaced the ECU… same problem still exists. Just waiting in the injectors to come in.
Hi Sean… the new fuel injectors worked for the fuel trims. As far as fuel trims go it’s running perfect. But, now I have what seems to be a constant misfire on #2 and 6. Thanks
Glad to hear the injectors worked! Make sure the o-rings on #2 and #6 are sealing properly.
My Car consume a lot of Fuel and it emits black snake,it also misfiring.
Please what do u think is the problem?
High fuel consumption and black smoke could be an indicator that the car is running rich. If it’s newer than 1995 you can scan for OBD2 codes to see if that tells you anything useful. You may see an issue with an O2 sensor or catalytic converter.
If your vehicle uses OBD1 you can still scan for codes, but it’s done using a jumper wire between pins instead of a scan tool. Look up your owner’s manual (or a forum) for the proper procedure for checking codes on your vehicle.
Took my 2011 Dodge Grand Caravan to get inspection. Check engine light was on and reading fault codes in regards to the transmission. Garage recommended I take the van to the Dodge dealer. Dodge dealer tells me van needs a new transmission. I have them replace the transmission with a brand new one. They then call me and tell me that my starter was now making a loud noise so that would need to be replaced as well. The starter was fine with no problems when I dropped my van off to them. Over $5000 later I get my van back. Fast forward just 6 weeks. I’m driving my van when all of a sudden the battery light came on. I pulled over and turned off the van. It then would not start. Nothing would work not even the locks on the doors. Had the van towed. Garage now says I now need a new ECU, battery and alternator. Could the initial problem have been the ECU and not the transmission? My other question is could they have bypassed the surge protector on the ECU when they replaced the starter thus causing the ECU failure?
It’s really hard to say without knowing the initial state of the van. It’s unlikely they bypassed the main fuse (probably the “surge protector” you’re thinking of).
09 VW CC.
Variety of problems, seemingly all random. Transmission dropped out of gear and won’t go back into gear. Input and output speed sensors are both inside the trans requiring pan removal so I’ve not gone in there yet. Engine runs great but, auto trans will not engage regardless of shifter position.
And…cooling fans run at high speed from startup to 15 minutes after shut down even with cold engine and A/C off. Tested temp sensor and it works. Replaced FCU and fans behave the same. A/C will not turn on. Had it tested and the system overall is good but a command from the ECU is disallowing the compressor to engage.
ECU acting up do you think?
My audi a3 2011/2012 refuse to start and I changed the battery but the battery run down again so I tried jumping the vehicle and connected the plugs wrong and it sparked. Still not getting any start but the lights on the dashboard is coming on saying drive to the nearest work shop
What might be the problem or is the ecu damaged
If you hooked up the jumper cables backwards it could be any number of things. I know a guy who did this and it fried the starter and popped the main 80 amp fuse. I’d take it to a shop to have it looked at.
Hi I was driving my when the temperature idle went to the limit & the warning was engine too hot. Called the AA & they said the thermostat sensor needed replacing. That was 6 months ago, today while getting my car washed the warning come on same reason as before so I changed the sensor again. Started the car & kept saying engine too hot, the engine was cold had plenty of water in it. Could the ECU mis diagnose, if so what causes this. I have a Peugeot 207cc 07plate
It’s possible the ECU could misdiagnose, but it’s highly unlikely.
Most thermostats are mechanical devices, not really sensors. They are basically valves held closed by a wax chamber. When the wax up it melts and expands, pushing the valve open. Once open, this brings cool water (or coolant) from the radiator into the engine and allows the hot coolant to move to the radiator, where it is cooled before reentering the engine block. Once the thermostat cools back down below its designated temperature, the wax solidifies and the valve closes again via a return spring.
I would get a second opinion on that diagnosis. If an overheating issue is left unchecked, it can cause a more serious problem such as blown head gaskets (assuming that’s not the root cause).
I have intermittent issues with low idle RPMs and stalling while idling and while driving. Sometimes idle won’t go above 600 even while in park. Also AC/defroster is causing a drop in RPMs, even with a new IAC. When I reset the computer via battery disconnect, it idles perfectly for a while. Then hours or days later I’ll start it up and have it only at 600 RPMs again and wanting to stall when I put it into geae. Today it was idling for 15 minutes just fine, drove 15 minutes no problem, drove back 15 minutes, idled 15 minutes again, then finally it was stalling non stop. It started while I let my foot off the throttle as I approached a stop light. I was going 20-30mph. After that stall I couldn’t get it above 500 RPMs or so and it stalled about 5 times total. And that was only going a few blocks.
2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS 4 cylinder 2.4L 215,000 miles
BTW I did get 2 IAC codes. P0506 and P0507. But IAC wouldn’t cause it to stall while driving since IAC is only active while idle. I have 3 different IACs that I’ve cleaned and switched in with no change. So I dont think IAC is my problem unfortunately
You may have an intermittent connection between the IAC and the ECU, a vacuum leak, or a dirty throttle body, IAC, or MAF.
You can check for vacuum leaks using a smoke test. If you don’t have a smoke tester, you can build your own. Just google “diy smoke tester” and find one that works for you.
If you have no vacuum leaks, I would try cleaning the parts above and see if it helps any.
You may want to test your IAC just to confirm it’s not the problem. I found a good source for your car that may help: https://www.club3g.com/threads/how-to-testing-iac-idle-air-control.140906/
My battery keeps on draining. We changed the battery and alternator same problems exists. No grounded wires. I am thinking that it might be the ECU.
I suppose it’s possible. However, I think it is more likely that there is a parasitic drain. This may come from the radio or an aftermarket security system, for instance.
I have 07 Yukon with a 5.3 in it. I think the ecu is bad, the truck stalls with no spark, the check engine light is on, but it has no codes, I tried to reset the ecu all the different ways. The engine light won’t shut off.
Can someone please give me some advice thanks
See if the factory manual has a procedure for testing the ECU. You may find a manual for free by googling “07 Yukon factory manual”, but Haynes and Chilton manuals are inexpensive and do a pretty good job.
I have an intermittent ECU problem that seems to happen mainly in the morning when the headlamps are on , any ideas ?
I’m sorry to hear the problem is intermittent. Those can be very tricky to diagnose.
It’s hard to throw out too many ideas without more information. Providing your year/make/model and a description of the symptoms would help narrow down the cause tremendously.
Before jumping straight to the ECU, I would start with the simple stuff: have your battery and alternator tested at a local parts store. Most places will do this for free.
I change the cylenderhead gasket and oil seals due to leak but when i install all the parts and wirings and start the engine the engine only works in seconds and stop
Double check that you timed the engine correctly when you put it back together.
My 2010 Toyota Corolla has a misfire in cylinder one.I have got new coils and my injectors are good.I have checked for a head gasket that is also good to.What could it be.The motor is a 1.8.
How are your spark plugs?
My car is Hyundai Verna, 2011made 1.6crdi diesel engine,
Initially I got a starting issue, one injector is not working, my ECM got entrapped with rain water… Then the mechanic made ready the ECM… then after few days my ECM got burnt… Can u suggest any reasons…I assure there is no mishandling issues in it, no water entrapped… Is there any voltage issue or wiring kit issue???
How about if there is no power to climb but in plain is running good