A transmission valve body is a complex labyrinth of valves and solenoids that routes transmission fluid through circuits in the transmission. If the transmission control module (TCM) is the brain of the transmission, valve body would be the heart.
When valves and solenoids in this component wear out, transmission performance suffers or it may simply cease to function. Read on to learn the common signs of a faulty transmission valve body, and what to expect for repair costs if this intricate control unit needs replacement.
What is a Valve Body?
Not to be confused with the intake and exhaust valves in your engine, the valve body is an assembly inside an automatic or CVT transmission that routes automatic transmission fluid (ATF) throughout the transmission.
The transmission fluid is sent to the right place at the right time by using hydraulic circuits, controlled by a system of valves and solenoids that direct the flow.
Depending on the position of each solenoid, each hydraulic circuit activates a different function of the transmission. Some examples of these functions are gear selection, torque converter lockup, and even lending assistance to the ABS system in certain scenarios.
Bad Transmission Valve Body Symptoms
When you experience a symptom of a bad transmission valve body, it is typically very noticeable. Chances are that you won’t be able let it go for too long because it will greatly impact your driving ability and will likely frustrate you while trying to change gears.
A valve body issue may even trigger limp mode or leave you stranded. Below are some of the common symptoms you may experience if you have a bad transmission valve body.
1) Can’t Shift Into Certain Gears
There are many solenoids that the TCM can turn on and off to direct the flow of transmission fluid inside the valve body. If one of these solenoids were to fail, you may find yourself locked out of certain gears, or you may be unable to shift at all.
Drivers may find it inconvenient as the car gets stuck in only 1st or 2nd gear for example. This symptom tends to become progressively worse if left unattended.
A qualified transmission shop may be able to replace a single component inside the valve body, or you may need a new valve body depending on what the root cause of the problem is.
2) Banging Noises
Do you notice any banging noises as you apply pressure to the brake pedal and slow down? Perhaps you also hear these noises when you put the car in reverse and drive backwards. You may even hear them simply from changing gears.
If the answer is yes to any or all of these scenarios, then chances are you may have a bad transmission valve body.
3) Gear Shifting Slippage
Slippage is another indication of valve body troubles. This means the transmission RPMs spike but the car does not pick up speed proportionately. The valve body contains critical flow control valves that manage hydraulic pressure to transmission clutches.
Faulty valves can lead to low pressure or premature clutch apply, causing the clutches to slip and lose traction. Drivers will notice some hesitation, lack of power, or even the car barely moving when hitting the gas despite the high engine RPMs.
4) Cannot Downshift
Similar to the first symptom of not being able to shift into higher gears, losing the ability to downshift into lower gears is another sign of a failing valve body. The attempted downshift may be the vehicle’s automatic attempt as you slow down or it may be a manual attempt by the driver using a paddle shifter for instance.
If the transmission is not able to downshift, then hydraulic fluid may not be entering or navigating the transmission valve body properly. Once this happens, the gears cannot be pressurized properly which degrades the performance of the vehicle.
5) Shifting Delays
Does it take a long time to shift gears from reverse or drive (or the other way around)? Sometimes a malfunctioning transmission valve body will delay the fluid flow, causing a lag before the desired gear is engaged.
This may also cause you to be stuck in neutral or a single gear. It’s important to not get too frustrated and try to muscle the shifter until it gets into gear. Doing so can cause further damage to the valve body or even the gear shift assembly.
Transmission Valve Body Replacement Cost
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There are many tiny components inside a transmission valve body that must function exactly as designed for proper transmission operation.
If you take your vehicle to a qualified transmission repair shop, there is a chance that the shop may be able to replace an individual component instead of the entire valve body. However, replacement of the entire valve body assembly is quite common.
The cost of replacing a bad transmission valve body will depend on the make and model of your vehicle. However, it is one of the more expensive car part replacements that you will need to make.
On average, a transmission valve body assembly will cost you anywhere from $500 to $1200. Then you must consider the labor costs which may be quite extensive.
Since replacing a transmission valve body can take anywhere from 2 to 4 hours to finish, you must figure the hourly rate of a mechanic is between $100 to $200. This means the least you will pay for labor is $200, but you could pay $800 or more in labor alone, depending on what else they need to do while they’re in there.
Therefore, the total average cost of a transmission valve body replacement is between $700 and $2000. If you’re just driving an economy car, then expect to shell out around $800 for this replacement job.
It is recommended that you get a professional auto mechanic to replace the transmission valve body there are many small parts that have to be replaced in a very precise way and torqued to spec. One tiny mistake could cause more mechanical problems.
Don’t get tempted into doing the labor yourself just to avoid the costs of hiring a mechanic to do it. Their labor costs may seem like a lot but if you mess something up, you could risk messing up your entire transmission. This would likely cost you thousands of dollars more to fix.
How Can I Prevent This Problem From Happening?
To prevent future issues with the transmission valve body, make sure you are running the correct automatic transmission fluid (ATF) for your vehicle. You should get in the habit of routinely checking the transmission fluid level, especially if you notice any transmission fluid leaks.
Most automatic transmissions have a dipstick that will allow you to check the transmission fluid level. If the automatic transmission fluid level is too low or too high, problems with the valve body may surface.
An overfilled transmission can act up too, so make sure you don’t pour too much ATF into the transmission if you’re topping up. Consult your owner’s manual for instructions on how to check the transmission fluid level.
Many vehicles require the engine to be running and the fluid to be checked at idle. This allows the ATF to circulate through the transmission pump, which should drop the fluid level reading on the dipstick.
What Can Happen If You Ignore the Problem
It’s not a good idea to simply ignore the symptoms of a defective transmission valve body even they may currently be just an annoyance. The symptoms will only get worse and waiting too long to take action nearly always results in accelerated transmission wear, and ultimately complete failure in short order.
Low hydraulic pressures lead to clutch and band slippage, generating excessive heat and abnormal wear on internal components. Incorrect shift timing causes undue stress on shafts, gears, bearings, and synchronizers as the unit is forced into gears at the wrong RPMs.
These worsening problems will begin grinding away vital and expensive components leading to premature need for transmission overhaul or replacement. The upfront cost of replacing a faulty valve body to restore proper hydraulic control avoids even more expensive transmission repairs later on.
Vehicle owners can expect to pay upwards of $2,500-5,000 for transmission rebuilds if long term valve body problems are disregarded. This can dwarf the $700 to $2,000 typical cost of timely valve body replacement.
Catching driveability issues early and addressing root causes in the valve body soon after symptoms appear is exceptionally more cost effective than allowing ancillary damage to compound across the entire transmission.
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I have ford explorer 2.3, 2016 with powerful engine but transmission pops up different habit all the time.
1. Hash in reverse gear and sometimes refuse to engage
2. Gear slip at 60mph and refuse to move when stopped, unless you wait for several min/hour to cool down.
I have a 1977 stock TH 350 that shifts great u til it warms up and then it has an erratic 2nd-3rd shift. I’ve changed the vacuum modulator and verified vacuum and inspected the governor. Maybe a valve body issue?
Hi.
I have a Mercedes C200 2013 W204.
And mechanic says I need to change the transmission valve body. And only Mercedes can do this. And they say it’s 3000 euro, and it isn’t really worth putting that much money into this car.
Is there another way? Can I send it to someone to get it fixed?
Any help will be appreciated.
Bjørnar
I found this really helpful for my 2013 Legacy, which is known to have issues with this very important part of the CVT.
However, now that it is October of 2022, these prices need a serious update with corporate/capitalist greed in full bloom right now.
Labor at the local Subaru dealer is $185/hr now (job take five hours per the book). My mechanic quoted me $800 less for the entire job but if I am to get any cost assistance from corporate Subaru on this (expired) recalled part, I have to use the dealership. I’ll likely end up paying half of a $2300 repair bill – which will be only two hundred less than flat out paying my (quite capable) mechanic.
You’re right, inflation has taken its toll on how much it costs to perform many routine maintenance items. Prices have been updated.
Just took my 2012 6-cylinder 2012 Subaru Outback into the dealership after engine light and several other dashboard lights came on. A few days prior to flashing lights, while driving at 45 mph I heard/felt a thunk and a few hundred feet later another, louder thunk. Sometimes I also hear/feel these to a lesser degree as I slow approaching a stop light. The mechanic’s inspection tracked to a bad turbin speed sensor and wire harness. Just to replace these (@ $1255), they cautioned, might not fully fix the problem; that repair might need to be followed by Valve Body replacement (@ $1850). Should I just have both of these done simultaneously, rather than wait to see if only the first suffices? I’m planning a cross-country drive from East Tennessee to Tucson next month.
I would only replace the parts that are necessary and see if it fixes the problem, personally. If you’re planning a cross country drive, use your best judgment (or defer to the mechanic’s recommendations).
My camry 2004 only select 3rd gear and reverse when driven for some minutes or I say when it get hot
Hi, I am having the exact same problem, the lights are on but car drives fine, but they said transmission value, so was wondering if you figured it out? Have a 2015 Forester thanks
I’ve been searching for a possible transmission fix for my 2010 SRX 3.0L.
There is no check engine light or service light of any kind. Even the systems check from OnStar shows nothing. But it’s getting worse.
Put the car in drive, it will shift into second and third fine but will not shift into the top gear. You can put it in sports mode and still will not upshift into the top gear.
Took it to the Cadillac dealership service and I was told over $3000 in repairs cost. I am 65+ old and never expected Cadillac to give up transmission at 91K miles.
Thanks in advance for any help.
I like my Cadillac but if it cannot last even 100K, I will put my money into another company that will last. Everyone makes lemons but seems to be an ongoing trend with GM lately.
Not all transmission issues throw codes. If it’s getting worse, I’d trust the mechanic and try to get it fixed.
Hello,
My car Subaru XV 2012 a.The gearbox solenoid block did not work, the armature malfunction lights were on, otherwise the car was driving, the revs were a bit higher.What does this spare part look like, and what is the factory code of this spare part?
with respect
Rando Lehes
Estonia
Can you describe what you mean by “gearbox solenoid block”?
I have a 2016 Ram 4×4 pick up and the following went out on the pu . The dash screen lit up , the key froze, the gear selector froze , the battery died, and I had it towed to the dealer who after checking it out found it to be a bad valve body relating to the transmission . To cut short, the cost $3561: And I still will stay with an USA made vehicle.
I have a 2015 Tahoe with the 6l80 in it it seems to shift up and down just fine. My issue is when going from 4th to 5th it makes a weird hold and slips or like a hiccup then it goes just fine and shifts out to 6th just fine and rides out fine it only does it on the accelerate and up shift no problems coming back to 5th it does it every time… does this sound like a symptom of the valve body?
I meant to say it makes a weird howl like sound only on the up from 5th to 6th
I have read about similar issues with dash lights flashing off and on with Chevy’s and the most common remedy was to clean the ground terminals that go from the negative terminal on the battery to the engine block and car frame.
Remove the bolts where the ground leads connect to the battery, the engine and the frame and clean the metal area and the terminals thoroughly, then reattach them.
Our 2013 Subaru Legacy’s dashlights (check engine, oil, cruise control… are flashing) It did this last year and I lubricated the gas cap, removed the battery cable and re-attached and it correct the problem. Having same issue, no transmission symptoms but the dealer is telling us it the valve body for $1500. Car drives fine. Any thoughts?
Personally I would get a second opinion. Ask around your area for a trustworthy independent shop.
I have a 1988 camaro ,and the problem I’m having is that some times when I break the car turns off
There are many possible causes for this behavior, so I recommend taking it to a mechanic for diagnosis and repair.
I have a e350 Mercerdes Benz my EPS light came on saying inoperative and the check engine light..I can put the car in neutral but not drive or reverse…what could be the problem
You have problem with the valve body, if you car is 2007 up the valve body is integrated with the transmission computer and you have a problem ….Mercedes benz NO sell the valve body to individuals, only to shop with a looksmith license and a insurance. So you have to go to a mercedes shop and expect to pay between 1200 and 1500 .
i have a chysler 300 it has 35000 miles on it ihavent drove the car all winter the car was would not start i got a boost then the car was stuck in neutral so i tow the car to chysler dodge they said it was a valve body and it cost 1800 dollar is that reasonal please let me know. do i need to get a second opinion
Hi
I have a th400 With a mild shift kit in it. It’s in a 70 chevelle with a built 396 (around 500hp at the wheels) ok now to my problem.
It up shifts fine but as soon as I lift off the throttle, then get back on it the car is in second gear this happens at different cruising speeds. I can’t feel it drop to second until I hit the gas then the rpm’s start to go up until it shifts back to 3rd and when I let off the throttle the same thing happens and the process starts all over.
This it what I have done
Relocate vacuum line from the base of the carb to manifold and replace the modulator. Could it be the valve body or the governor? I have the electronic kick down which is not hooked up.
Thanks for the feed back.
hello , I have a 2005 saab 9 5 with an automatic trans , and 2.3 turbo engine. had a trans shop in santa Barbara area test drive it for aprox.20 minutes . he came back and told me it needed a valve body , which I suspected, but it would cost $1700.00 OR MORE . I’m probably taking it to someone else because it doesn’t sound right ,especially now after reading your comments and quotes . PLEASE tell me if im getting ripped off , and any other advice I might follow . Thank you for your advice and knowledge!
Also, it has about 101,500 miles, and does make a thud sound, once its warmed up and when is coming to a stop, or shifting from ,park to reverse or drive occasionally. Stop and go traffic is BRUTAL. Thank you.
I’d get a second opinion if you are concerned. Describe the issue, then have them test drive it and give you a quote.
My Ford edge 2008 model, if I engage my gear, it will engage but if I accelerate to drive it cannot move, but on R reverse it will go back smoothly, my mechanic have changed body valves and sensor still no way, I changed gear box still no way. What should I do pls.